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Riflessioni passate

Ciò che contraddistingue la moda è il costante seguire le mode.
Banale direte voi, scontato.

Credo invece che per i non addetti al settore, la spiegazione si basi su risposte molto più superficiali e meno interessanti.

Da ragazzino mi sono sempre opposto al diventare parte di una massa. Ero incosciente del fatto che in un modo o nell’altro ero comunque integrato in un gruppo modaiolo e sociale ben distinto. Inconsciamente, indossando vestiti oversize con i pantaloni sotto il sedere, ero già parte di un gruppo. Stavo ricalcando uno stile che mi si era costruito nella mente attraverso un puzzle di immaginari raccolti qua e la.

Mi sono spesso interrogato sul perché un determinato capo di vestiario (per cui spesso ho palesato disgusto) potesse essere indossato da qualcuno. Mia madre ha studiato da modellista e lavorato come disegnatrice per la moda. Mi ha sempre detto una cosa che trovo abbia un’applicazione un po’ per tutte le categorie della vita.

“Tutto è ciclico”.

Lei che la moda se l’è vissuta a partire dagli anni ’60 ha una visione più completa del quadro e riesce a vedere i vari cambiamenti da un punto di vista più ampio. Si esatto, la terra ruota intorno al sole ruotando su se stessa, le stagioni si alternano, le modelle camminano in tondo sulla passerella così come le mode ciclicamente ritornano.

_Fare moodboard

Analizzando il mondo della fashion industry ho scovato un altro keyframe che collega sotterraneamente i diversi mondi e stili dei diversi brand.

La necessità è quella di dare vita ad oggetti inanimati per renderli appetibili al consumatore, che deve sentirsi parte integrante di un mondo che ha come “oggetto transizionale” un abito da indossare.
La passerella è un primo approccio all’inanimato che diventa animato. Nei video invece, oltre al substrato di mood ideologico, ritroviamo un layer composto di modelli e modelle.

Questi, sfruttando i loro corpi mobili, compiono alcune movenze (apparentemente casuali) per enfatizzare gli abiti che stanno indossando e renderli dinamici.
Se cerchiamo in rete infatti possiamo imbatterci in spot commerciali dove su un palcoscenico i vestiti fanno muovere e danzare figure femminili e maschili in base alle loro necessità. Il tutto in un contesto oggettivamente irreale, ma pieno di figure retoriche chiave che servono da cioccolatino per gli osservatori e possibili acquirenti.

Quest’anno ci siamo trovati ad affrontare e risolvere alcuni progetti video legati al mondo della moda dove, a prescindere dall’indossato, l’identità visiva risultava omogenea nonostante i differenti brand. Tutto il concept coinvolgeva modelle in primo piano mentre alcuni ritagli di fotografie e illustrazioni, usati come sfondi o quinte, assumevano il ruolo secondario di partner.

A questo punto mi sono di nuovo interrogato su quale fosse l’anello di congiunzione tra il collage e il fashion. La risposta che ho sviluppato mi riporta indietro nella produzione di un capo di moda. Dai banchi di progettazione fino alle tavole di moodboard che vengono presentate in consiglio prima di partire con il taglia e cuci. L’immagine che mi si presenta chiara nella mente è quella della stanza di lavoro di una cara amica che fa la consulente per le grandi case di moda: pareti e tavole composte di ritagli di tessuto e pattern affiancati da disegni dei figurini con i modelli dei vari capi per le nuove collezioni.

A queso punto faccio una premessa e azzardo una teoria.

_Premessa.

Sappiamo tutti che un grande e virtuoso creativo è solo frutto di un mix delle informazioni conosciute, che ha assimilato durante gli anni di lavoro attraverso cose viste e sentite che poi riassembla secondo un suo preciso intento, per soddisfare il cliente e il proprio ego.

_Teoria.

Nel mondo della moda ciò che conta sono gli abiti che messi in mostra al loro stato di oggetto non sono abbastanza appetitosi. Cosa fare allora?

  • prendere un manichino vivo
  • fare indossare il capo al manichino
  • contestualizzare il manichino su un background scenico o, in alternativa, usare un color pastello come sfondo
  • far muovere il vestito utilizzando il manichino

Adesso abbiamo gli elementi con cui costruire il nostro successo.

Di seguito a questi ragionamenti semplicistici mi ritrovo a digitare su Google la keyword “Gira la moda”. Ve lo ricordate?
Personalmente, essendo più interessato da robot e macchinine, non ne ho mai posseduto uno, ma so di per certo che qualche amica nostalgica lo ha tenuto. Ecco, se dovessi distillare la moda in un oggetto di design sarebbe sicuramente quello. Lo spot citava: “Vivi l’emozione della grandi sfilate con Gira la moda. Muovi la ruota e disegna per creare nuovi favolosi modelli. Giralamoda, gira la ruota della tua creatività.”

Ne conveniamo in maniera ovvia ed in ultima battuta che tutto ha uno schema. Che lo schema riconosciuto come universale è quello ciclico. Che la ciclicità ha un suo meccanismo perfetto, così come madre natura ci insegna.

Nonostante ci imponiamo di non seguire le mode, finiamo per infilarci in clichè apparentemente anonimi, ma decisamente in stile. Che seguire le mode sia quindi un nostro istinto naturale?

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